The Great Turtle Pilgrimage: Witnessing Life on the Southern Great Barrier Reef

We live on the Great Barrier Reef, surrounded by some of the most spectacular marine life on the planet. So, why do we pack up the gear and drive 1,500km south to another section of the reef every single year?

The answer is simple: Turtles!

Each year, we make our annual ‘turtle pilgrimage’ to Heron Island and Lady Elliot Island—two coral cays on the Southern Great Barrier Reef that become the epicenter of a biological miracle. We’ve been painting and photographing turtles for over a decade, and these ancient voyagers hold a permanent place in our hearts and our work.

The Season of New Beginnings

From November through January, the waters around these southern islands pulse with movement. Mature green and loggerhead turtles gather offshore to breed, a ritual that has unfolded for millennia.

By night, the heavy, pregnant females haul themselves up the beach. It is a slow, methodical labor. Using their back flippers, they carve out chambers deep enough to hold between 80 and 120 eggs. After covering the nest and pressing the sand firm, the mother disappears back into the dark water. She will never see her offspring.

When the Sand Moves: The Hatchlings Emerge

The real magic happens weeks later as the summer heat softens. At first, you see nothing but a slight sink in the dunes. Then, a tremor. Suddenly, a tiny black head pushes through, followed by dozens more.

The statistics of survival are humbling:

• 1 in 1,000: The estimated number of hatchlings that survive to maturity.
• 30+ Years: How long it takes for a turtle to reach breeding age.
• Magnetic Imprinting: Hatchlings ‘record’ the magnetic signature of the beach so they can return to this same region decades later to breed.

Watching these tiny creatures—sand in their eyes and adrenaline in their hearts—sprint toward the surf is a lesson in pure resilience. They dodge waiting gulls and reef sharks, undeterred by the waves that send them tumbling back up the beach.

Field Notes: Two Weeks on Heron & Lady Elliot

Our most recent trip spanned two weeks across these two iconic islands. Here is a behind-the-scenes look at our days spent photographing this incredible natural event.

1. Heron Island: The Hatchling Hotspot

Our first stop was Heron Island, one of the best places in Australia to witness hatchlings. With over 2,200 adult turtles arriving each season, the beaches quite literally come alive.

Late afternoons meant wheeling our wagon down to the sand to set up base camp. While the kids built coral towers, Dave and I scanned the dunes. At the first imperceptible flicker of tiny black shapes erupting from the sand, it was all hands on deck!

Photographing baby turtles is surprisingly difficult. Human footprints become impassable canyons, so we smoothed the sand while Elliot shooed away hungry seagulls. Once the hatchlings hit the surf, Dave would quickly swap lenses, pull on his fins, and charge into the water to photograph them dodging waves and reef sharks.

Mornings were quieter. With Jamie in the carrier, I’d walk the beaches before sunrise to watch the nesting females in the quiet light of dawn.

2. Lady Elliot Island: The ‘Finding Nemo’ Reef

After Heron Island we travel on to Lady Elliot Island, another coral cay on the Southern Great Barrier Reef. Arriving here always feels a little like coming home. Familiar faces greet us on arrival and we quickly settle back into the rhythm of the island’s walking tracks and reef edges.

The nesting population here is smaller, so hatchlings are harder to spot, but this part of the trip was more about being in the water ourselves and enjoying one of our favourite places on Earth.

And Lady Elliot delivered! 

One afternoon we counted 17 adult turtles on a single patch of reef. There were also octopus tucked into coral crevices, reef sharks cruising the drop-off and guitarfish gliding silently over the sand. There’s a reason the creators of Finding Nemo used this reef for inspiration: it really does feel like swimming through the film.

Beyond our love of the island itself, we return to Lady Elliot each year because the turtles behave differently here. Out on the open reef turtles are alert and cautious. Around these coral cays they’re relaxed — feeding, resting and sleeping among the coral.

These expeditions are the ‘soul’ of our work at SEA Gallery. The moments Dave captures on his stomach in the sand or while diving through the surf become the reference points for Stephanie’s artworks.

Decades from now, some of those very hatchlings we cheered into the water will return as mature adults. We feel incredibly lucky to witness even a small part of their journey.

Explore the Collection: Many of our latest pieces were inspired by these very moments on the Southern Great Barrier Reef. View Turtle Photos here and Turtle Art here.

Planning a trip to see the turtles?

When is turtle hatching season in Queensland? 

Turtle season on the Southern Great Barrier Reef is split into two parts. Nesting season runs from November through March, when mature females come ashore to lay their eggs. Hatching season begins in early January and runs through to May, with the peak time to see baby turtles emerging usually falling between late January and March.

Can you swim with turtles on Heron Island and Lady Elliot Island?

Yes! While hatching only happens in the summer months, you can swim with turtles at both Heron and Lady Elliot Islands year-round. These coral cays are highly protected "Green Zones," meaning the marine life is abundant and relaxed. When snorkeling, you must always give turtles at least 1.5 meters of space, never touch them, and let them swim freely.

What are the rules for watching turtle hatchlings?

Witnessing hatchlings is a privilege, and strict guidelines are in place to ensure their survival. If you are watching hatchlings on the beach:

• No torches or flash photography: White light disorients the hatchlings, who rely on the natural light of the moon over the ocean to find their way. Use a red-light torch if necessary.
• Stay off the dunes: Walk down near the high-tide mark to avoid accidentally trampling hidden nests.
• Do not touch them: Never handle a hatchling or carry it to the water. They need to do the physical work of crossing the sand to build muscle and "imprint" on the magnetic signature of the beach so they can return decades later.